This affects 40% of the population – 50 – 80% will affect adolescents and often appears in individuals when they are children, it is more common in women than men.

Keratosis Pilaris occurs when the body produces excess Keratin – a natural protein in the skin, the excess keratin surrounds and traps the hair follicles/pores, this causes hard plugs to form and cause the red dots that you see – this is known as Hyper-keritinization. Ingrown hairs can also result from the keratinized skin trapping the hair follicles and preventing the hair from growing out.

Many doctors will just dimiss this as a genetic cosmetic problem and regard it as untreatable but there are a few things that have shown to give results.

Retinoid (Vitamin A) creams have proved very effective as they have a normalising effect on the skin and speed up the rate at which skin cells shed, also has a clearing effect on pores and discourages the blockage of dead skin cells. It may take a few weeks for changes to be seen and monitor for any irritation.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids like Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid have proved effective at reducing the build up of dead skin cells that block the follicles/pores (they can exfoliate inside the pore and the lining) - look for treatment serums or body lotions that contain these ingredients. Beta Hydroxy Acids are also effective – Salicylic Acid also gets into the follicle/pore to exfoliate the lining and discourage blockages.

Microdermabrasion is very effective and I have used this on clients with Keratosis Pilaris with very good results! It is a mechanical form of exfoliation with a suction action, it can actually remove some of the more stubborn keritinized plugs! and leave skin very smooth and even in tone.

The avoidance of Pore Clogging ingredients is also key to prevent further problems – so steer clear of mineral oil in body lotions, also known as Paraffinum Liquidum and  Petrolatum, these will only sit on the surface and possibly cause more congestion and build up of dead skin.

Is Mineral Make-up Better For our Skin?

Well, as with everything, there are pros and cons to mineral make-up, and some people  really cannot get on with it at all. I have tried nearly all the main brands of mineral make-up, and have decided on “Mineralogie” mineral cosmetics for me and my clients, it really is excellent quality, and I love recommending it!, one of the things I love most is the SPF 26 Protection! – The highest rating for a mineral foundation in the industry.

It took me a period of adjustment to get used to mineral make-up application, and the pressed and loose formulations. Once you have found which formula to use for your skin type, the application becomes easy and less time consuming than the normal liquid foundation, concealer and powder ritual.

Mineral Make-up Benefits

Let’s start with the things that are so great about mineral make-up – (The Pure mineral brands, not some of the mainstream brands that have very little mineral content)

• There is NO fragrance or preservatives
• You can build the coverage up in layers, to cover Acne and Rosacea
• Most have a SPF of around 20-26 (Mineralogie has the highest rating from the FDA), this broad spectrum sunscreen is in the form of Zinc Oxide and Titanium Oxide and protects against UVA and UVB rays – don’t rely on this in the hot sun if you are sunbathing, use a separate sunscreen and use your make-up as insurance!! As you would have to apply a very liberal amount to achieve that SPF.
• Pure minerals allow the skin to breath and function normally
• Some brands have added antioxidants to protect against air pollution
• There are fewer incidents of cosmetic acne and skin problems
• Mineral make-up doesn’t melt in the heat like traditional foundations
• Some are very water resistant and last longer than regular make-up
• when applied properly it doesn’t feel or look heavy, in fact you feel like your wearing no make-up
• Mineral make-up can act as a 3 in 1 product – foundation, concealer and powder

Mineral make-up is a great choice for Rosacea sufferers and sensitive skins, the reason for this is that it contains fewer ingredients and is fragrance and preservative free. The less ingredients in a product, the less there is to react to.

I personally like the way it looks on my skin, it has that light reflectiveness that gives you a more youthful look! But it isn’t perfect for everyone and has its downsides too.

I don’t deny that there are people who have reacted to mineral make-up negatively and have either had a sensitivity or a skin break-out.There are two reasons:

• Bismuth Oxychloride – this ingredient is in most mineral make-ups and gives the product a sheen or slight shimmer, a small minority have experienced skin reactions. Do a patch test or request a sample.
• Mica - this also gives the product shimmer, and small minorities are allergic. This is not just in mineral make-up; it is in most mainstream cosmetic formulations. ( it is an earth mineral)

Some brands contain Talc, which is in fact a natural earth mineral. Talc has had a bad press and some people say that it clogs their skin. There has been evidence of pure talc used frequently over the female genital area may increase the risk of ovarian cancer, but this is questionable and the evidence did not provide a direct link. You will find talc in most mainstream cosmetics.

Some people report that mineral make-up clogs their pores and makes their acne worse, everybody can react differently and can find any ingredient irritating, regardless of its origin. To be sure, it is better to patch test it first, or get a sample. (My skin gets clogged very easily, but I have not had a problem with mineral make-up)

Other doubters of mineral make-up say that their skin feels dry, but this is also a minority. There are a few key steps to application, if you have dry skin – less is more, as powder products can settle into fine lines and wrinkles. Most good brands offer a pressed mineral make-up, which is normally blended with something to make it pressed – like Grape seed or Almond Oil. Some brands also do a liquid mineral foundation which can suit a drier skin; they can have added ingredients like vitamins and hydrators. If you have dry skin it is also wise to use a skin spritz over the top of your mineral make-up, this sets the minerals and stops the powdered look, it also stops the minerals from rubbing off onto your clothes etc.

If your skin is on the oily side, then you may prefer the loose mineral formulations, these are oil free and very absorbent of oil without looking too powdered. Also though strictly not a true mineral make-up – Dermalogica Treatment Foundation  is based on minerals and tinted with iron oxides, it is oil free and great on an oily skin.

Here are some of the brands that are considered the most Pure Mineral make-up brands.

• Mineralogie
• Jane Iredale
• Bare Escentuals
• Youngblood
• Glo Minerals
• Susan Posnick
• Lily Lolo
• Sheer cover

What the cosmetics industry and customers appreciate is that mineral make-up respects the skin, perfecting it instantly, and gives a flawless finish. So it really is a matter of choice, and it’s a good option for most people, but remember there are good and bad versions of everything, and any one of us can react to any ingredient even with so-called Hypo-allergenic products – and there is no such thing as chemical free skincare or make-up, as every ingredient in a cosmetic is a chemical!! – But I still wouldn’t recommend going to bed with your make-up on, even if it is mineral make-up!!!

For more information and brand reviews visit the Mineral Make-up Blog.

The ageing we see on our skin is around 80 – 90% from environmental factors (i.e. – the sun/daylight), the rest is genetic. So you see how much you could potentially control the ageing process!! So get your protection on all year round!, an absolute minimum is SPF 15, and the reason for this is that SPF 15 has shown to protect your Langerhans Cells, any less will just not protect them. These cells are so important to your immune function of your skin.

2) Your fork is your best weapon against skin ageing! - Think of it as a two-pronged attack – your topical skin products do the work on the surface and your diet tackles the task from inside! Eating the right foods gives the skin the nutrients it needs to be healthier, smoother and dare we say it – less wrinkled! A diet rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids will have great benefits for your skin and your health. Don’t forget your protein as this is the building blocks of our cells, and we need it to keep our skin firm! Try and eat some protein with each meal. Our skin is often the last to get its ration of nutrients, so a good supplement regime will benefit you, I take a multivitamin and an antioxidant supplement, as well as a balanced omega 3 & 6 oil (Udo’s Choice). Food for thought – Salmon, Soya, Olive Oil, Dark Chocolate, Blueberries, Goji Berries, Pomegranate, Seeds and nuts, Turkey and Broccoli. Try and eat as many Antioxidant rich foods as you can!

3) Beauty Sleep - Sleep is the foundation of our wellbeing. We all know the effects of a bad nights rest on our skin! – the reason is that human growth hormone is released to revitalise your body and regenerate cells, this doesn’t happen as well when we have not had enough or had any deep (slow wave) sleep.The way you sleep also determines your wrinkle pattern. If you favour one side, your face may end up more pleated on that side. Try a Silk Skin pillow case, or try to sleep most of the time on your back.

4) Where there’s smoke, there are wrinkles! – I have included this as it should be a habit to – get out of the habit!!! Smoking is possibly the worst thing (it’s up there with sunbathing) you could do to your skin. You literally rob the skin of Oxygen and precious Vitamin C – we need this to make and support Collagen. If you smoke – you will double the rate at which you age.

5) Exercise is Key – The only trouble with exercise is that we do not do enough of it! Exercise is vital for stimulating circulation and increased circulation means the network of capillaries can deliver the nutrients and water to our skin cells. Our skin’s hydration is only as good as our circulation (even if you drink litres of water!), it’s no good if your blood isn’t bringing it to your cells. Exercise also stimulates growth hormone – which slows right down when we hit 30! Quick bursts of exercise are good and also weight bearing exercise.

6) Use ingredients that work – Skin care has never been as scientific as it is now. Although cosmetic products have their limits as to what they can achieve, they can still give you remarkable cumulative results. These are my top A list ingredients that are proven and have evidence to back up their claims - Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid (topical exfoliants), Salicylic Acid, Retinoids (i.e. Vitamin A), Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Peptides (cell communicators), Sunscreen actives. (We need these in high enough quantities to make a difference). The nearer the top of the ingredient list – the better! 

These are the B list and have a supporting role - Resveratrol, Green Tea, White Tea, Soy Isoflavones, Pomegranate, Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Grape Seed, Linoleic/Linolenic Acids – this list is extensive, so I have chosen the most popular.

If some of both lists are in your products in high enough quantities, then you have a product well worth using!

Dry skin and dehydration can be a temporary problem for most people – for example, in the winter. But for some, dry skin is a lifelong concern – they have genetically lipid dry skin (Allipoid).

Dry skin, also known as Xerosis, effects many people of all ages, even infants. As we get older there is a significant drop in the Stratum Corneum Lipids – fats that are essential for the structure and function of living cells, as well as Ceramides (one of the important components that make up the skin’s Lipid Barrier).

By the time we reach our 40’s, our skin will most likely be dry as well as dehydrated.

Lifestyle can also contribute to a dry or dehydrated skin – stress, continued exposure to the sun, wind, and chemicals in the environment will all weaken your skin’s barrier and vital moisture is lost.

Also the products you choose can sometimes irritate and artificially dry your skin out, avoid S.D Alcohol (specially denatured- also known as Alcohol Denat) Any toners that feel like they are burning are a no no! they most likely contain S.D Alcohol or some other form of barrier solvent, you really want to strengthen your skin’s barrier and keep it as intact as you can.

Dry skin, or Allipoid skin, generally refers to a skin that is lacking in oil, whereas dehydrated skin is defined by the lack of water in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. Typically, skin cells that make up the deepest layers of the epidermis have around 80% water content, while cells of the stratum corneum are about 10% water. Anything below 10% is perceived as dehydrated.

Oily skin can still be dehydrated, it has enough levels of sebum (your skin’s oil) but that doesn’t help maintain water levels in the skin. A true dry skin will lack oil and also be dehydrated, due to a poor barrier that is leaking vital moisture.

Both dry and dehydrated skin is often irritated, inflamed and itchy, and it is worse in areas with very few sebaceous glands – such as arms, torso and legs as well as cheeks and eyes.

Other symptoms of dry skin can include a feeling of tightness or tautness, especially after bathing (having a bath is actually the worst thing for dry skin!), skin can flake and dry skin is more prone to fine lines and wrinkles. Dry skin will not have visible pores, the follicles will be quite tight.

Dry Skin Genes

Scientists at the University of Dundee have discovered the gene that causes dry skin. The Dundee research team says that its work has discovered the gene that produces “Filaggrin“, which helps the skin form a protective barrier, isn’t producing Filaggrin in a true Dry Skin. Filaggrin is normally found in large quantities in the outermost layers of the skin and is an essential part of the skin Barrier Function, helping to retain water and has moisturising properties, as well as keeping foreign organisms and bacteria out. They may have found the genetic reason for dry skin, but no cure! all I can say is moisturise, moisturise and then moisturise a bit more!

Winter Xerosis

This is also known as Chicago winter skin. It occurs when people live in a climate that goes from humid to very dry. This can be very uncomfortable for your skin, the reason is the low humidity which causes a decrease in the water content of the Stratum Corneum.

Lifestyle facors to avoid!

• Over Cleansing – Yes! you can wash your skin too much! – avoid soap, it’s too alkaline and will strip your skin’s barrier. Use acid balanced cleansers, in a cream or cream/gel formulation. Also avoid very Hot water.
• Over exfoliation - too much is definitely bad for your skin, dry skin needs a certain amount of exfoliation, but keep it light and less frequent, I like Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant, it’s a super gentle polisher that leaves skin really smooth and glowing.
• Avoid products with artificial colours or fragrance.
• Smoking can also have a drying and dehydrating effect on the skin, as smoking inhibits the body’s ability to provide oxygen, nutrients and water to the skin. Smoking also drains the skin (and your body) of Vitamins A and C, and restricts blood vessels. You suffocate your skin from the inside.
• The Sun can also contribute to dry skin, constant exposure to the sun causes water to evaporate from the skin, tanned or burned skin requires a lot more moisturising for this reason. Always wear an SPF at all times!
• A Fat Free diet is definitely a trouble! and will put you on the path to dry skin and premature ageing! Skin friendly Essential Fatty Acids are the “good” fats and will provide your body the ingredients to support your skin’s barrier. I like Viridian’s Organic Beauty Oil or Udo’s Choice Oil blend  and take a tablespoon every day! It is also thought that taking “Hyaluronic Acid” supplements can plump cells and hydrate skin from within.
• Excess Alcohol, and certain medications (such as decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin and cause dehydration.

What can you do?

There are many steps you can take to lessen the discomfort of dry and dehydrated skin. The right lifestyle choices are a great start, as well as a Professional Skin Treatment and effective home-care products.

Contrary to popular belief drinking water does not directly hydrate and impact your skin! your better off topically applying products to combat the moisture loss.

We need our bodies to be hydrated in order for our cells to get the water they need, but we are only as good as our circulation and lymphatic system! If they are not great, the blood vessels will not be carrying all the nutrients, water and oxygen to our skin! So the key is to do enough exercise (regularly) to get the blood flowing and you sweating! and your face nice and rosy!

It is true our body loses around 2 litres a day through sweat, urine etc, and we do need to put that back in, but we get water from our food as well as drinking, I try to drink about 1 litre of water a day as well as other drinks, and I eat lots of fruit and veg.  The signs of dehydration are –  lethargy, headaches and thirst – don’t let your body get to this point, so always keep some water handy!

The use of a humidifier will also help add moisture to surrounding air – central heating is terrible for our skin, warm dry air acts like a giant sponge, soaking up moisture from everything it touches. Dry-it-out  has a wide range of affordable humidifiers, or you can place some bowls of water around the house, house plants will also help.

Topical Solutions For Dry Skin

Effective skin-care for dry skin will include the use of emollients and hydrators to replenish skin, and antioxidant vitamins and peptides to stimulate collagen production and increase the skin’s barrier protection. Make sunscreen as much a part of your routine as cleansing and moisturising, apply at least a teaspoon to get the correct SPF.

Cleansers For Dry Skin

Avoid stripping the skin with one of these creamy, hydrating cleansers, if your skin is too dry to use water then simply tissue off.

• Dermalogica Essential Cleansing Solution
• Dermalogica Ultra Calming Cleanser
• Crystal Clear Wipe Away The Years

Toners For Dry Skin

Spritz toners are great for dry or dehydrated skin, apply your moisturiser onto freshly spritzed, damp skin and you will seal in and trap extra moisture.

• Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner
• Dermalogica Soothing Protection Spray
• Dermalogica Antioxidant Hydra-Mist
• Crystal Clear Revitalising Tonic

Moisturisers For Dry Skin

• Dermalogica Super Rich Repair
• Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Balance
• Dermalogica Power Rich
• Dermalogica Extra Rich Face Block SPF30
• Dermalogica Multivitamin Power Firm
• Dermalogica Barrier Repair
• Crystal Clear Skin Repair Serum
• Crystal Clear Intense Anti-Ageing Serum
• O2 Intraceuticals Moisture Binding Cream

Treatment Masks for Dry Skin

Use a mask 2-3 times a week as a super hydrating and nourishing fix, especially in the winter or on holidays.

• Dermalogica Multivitamin Power Recovery Masque
• Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Masque
• Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque
• Crystal Clear Mini Lift Mask

Products To Combat Dehydration

Some of the products above will be too emollient for skin’s that are dehydrated and not genetically dry, some of them though are still fine to use, even on oily skin. If in doubt, please ask me. The products below will tackle dehydration, even on oily, easily congested skin.

• Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Booster
• Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream
• Dermalogica Active Moist
• O2 Intraceuticals Rejuvenate Hydration Gel
• Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque
• Dermalogica Multi-Active Toner

Skin Treatments For Dry And Dehydrated Skin

Sometimes your skin needs an extra boost, regardless of what products you are using – that’s the time to get a skin treatment. Treatments are tailored to your skin, as I am sure you may have other skin concerns apart from dryness or dehydration. Using Professional strength products and equipment that give real results. In a treatment we can use higher strength exfoliants, enhance the penetration of active ingredients with electricals, and enhance circulation and the lymphatic system.

• Dermalogica Custom Treatment
• O2 Intraceuticals Oxygen Treatments

However, many women experience very unpredictable skin problems as well! All triggered by those pregnancy hormones, Oestrogen, Progesterone and HCG that are all circulating inside you. The first trimester will be particularly draining, to your energy levels and your skin, as the growing foetus will be taking everything it needs nutritionally, and leaving little left for you – let alone your skin.

Pregnancy Skincare

You will have plenty of other things to think about instead of your skincare regime, so take the time to enjoy your pregnancy and relish the attention – it will all be over before you know it! Here’s some simple  TLC for your skin……

• A simple but thorough skincare regime – a few good products will see you through.
• Cleanser and gentle exfoliator – you may need to change your usual products as skin can become drier or oilier (spend at least 1 minute cleansing your skin).
• A refreshing skin spritz – this can hydrate and cool skin during the day – many pregnant women complain of getting too hot!
• A moisturiser with an effective sunscreen is vital – this is so important to prevent pregnancy pigmentation from becoming permanent – be extra careful with a big floppy hat if it’s very sunny.
• A good spot treatment to zapp those hormonal blemishes, unfortunately you wont be able to use some of the effective treatments with Salicylic Acid, Essential Oils and Vitamin A, but try a dab of witch hazel or Sudocrem. Invest in a good non-comedogenic foundation and concealer for cover ups.

Pregnancy & Acne

Skin flare ups are common for some women in the first trimester as hormones have a profound effect on acne. During pregnancy “Progesterone” (a female hormone) levels are much higher – this can result in distressing acne flare-ups. This may clear up in the second or third trimester, and with most people will disappear after giving birth.

Melasma  - also known as the mask of pregnancy.

Hormonal imbalance, a cause of pigmentation mostly affecting women, can occur during any time that the body’s natural hormonal balance is disturbed. These triggers can include hormonal changes, such as those that happen during the menstrual cycle, birth control pills, prolonged stress, menopause and most commonly pregnancy. Unlike pigmentation related to trauma or sun damage, hormonal induced hyper-pigmentation generally disappears when hormone balance is restored, and it can be treated during the interim period with topical skin brighteners. If you are pregnant always wear a SPF on your face, this will prevent the Melasma from getting darker and prevent damage. Try mineral sunblocks as they are less irritating if your skin is sensitised with pregnancy.

Extra Care For Your Body

One of the main concerns for most pregnant women is the appearance of stretch marks and appear  mostly on the stomach, breasts and thighs when Collagen and Elastin is stretched to the point of no return - some women are more prone than others genetically, but there is  much you can do to nourish and prevent the worst……

• Lavish your body with moisturiser after every shower or bath, use ultra rich nourishing creams and plant oils. (avoid Mineral Oil – this is not an effective hydrator). Rose-hip Oil mixed with a Vitamin E capsule will strengthen and protect skin, also Dermalogica Ultra Rich Body Cream is extremely nourishing and doesn’t contain any essential oils.
• Avoid Soap and Sodium Lauryl Sulphate – these will strip the skin’s barrier and leave your skin tight and flaky.
• Skin that is essentially stretching can feel dry and itchy, especially around the belly. Try bathing in Oatmeal (wrap the oatmeal in a pair of old tights and immerse in warm water), it is incredibly soothing and helps relieve the itch!

Ingredients To Avoid During Pregnancy

• Vitamin A (Retinoids) – avoid all forms as this may be very irritating to your skin.
• Salicylic Acid – This is a Beta Hydroxy Acid and part of the Aspirin family, best avoided during pregnancy.
• Benzoyl Peroxide – This is found in some acne products and can penetrate the skin so best avoided.
• Essential Oils – Avoid the stimulating and Detoxifying  Essential Oils, if you want to use essential oils whilst pregnant seek advice from your doctor. Some are absolutely fine for pregnancy, but as a general rule I feel safer avoiding them all together.

Varicose Veins

Pregnancy hormones can make the walls and valves in your veins more relaxed, and with an increase in blood flow you may be plagued with Varicose Veins in your legs, groin or thighs. These can sometimes be extremely swollen, painful or itchy. They do normally run in families and worse if you stand up a lot, so if your mum has Varicose Veins, the chances are you will too. They are likely to become more visible in the last few weeks of pregnancy when you are at your heaviest. A good pair of support tights will help as well as massaging in a cooling leg and foot gel, try elevating your legs above chest height when you sit down and try to do some gentle exercise, also avoid sitting or standing for long periods. There are some effective solutions to remove Varicose Veins but wait until you have had all the children you want before seeking help.

Nutritional Needs During Pregnancy

Omega 3 supplements are now recommended by doctors and beneficial for baby’s health in the womb – and of course you! It’s easier to take a supplement than eating vast quantities of oily fish, also there are growing concerns over heavy metals in fish stocks, limit your Tuna & Swordfish due to high Mercury content.

Remember it is vital for your unborn baby that you have taken a Folic Acid supplement if your planning to get pregnant and during the first 12 weeks of your pregnancy - this is to prevent neural tube defects. Try Viridian’s Fertility For Women supplements, these have everything you need for a healthy conception.

During  your pregnancy you can take Viridian’s excellent Pregnancy Omega Oil and Pregnancy Complex vitamins, also carry on taking them post pregnancy while you are breast feeding.

 Supplements will ensure you are getting everything you need as your diet may not be perfect during pregnancy!

For a treat, get yourself a lovely pedicure for pretty feet! or if your skin is going crazy book in for a Pre & Post Natal Luxury Facial, to tackle some of your skin issues and release some of the tension in your face and neck, also a real treat would be to get a professional pregnancy massage or reflexology – bliss!

Once a mole develops, it normally stays the same size, colour and shape for many years. Most people have moles that are almost always harmless, however it is vital to recognise the changes in your moles that may suggest melanoma is developing.

The following ABCDE system can help you tell a normal mole from one that could be melanoma, check your self and your family at least once a year and anything suspicious should be seen by your doctor immediately.

Asymmetry – Melanoma lesions are typically asymmetrical, whereas benign moles are typically round and symmetrical.

Border – Melanoma lesions frequently have uneven or irregular borders (e.g, ragged or notched edges), and benign moles have smooth, even borders.

Colour – Melanoma lesions often contain multiple shades of brown or black, whereas benign moles are usually a single shade of brown.

Diameter – Early melanoma lesions are often more than 6mm in diameter, whereas benign moles are usually less than 6mm in diameter.

Elevations or Enlargement – look out for moles that seem much bigger or more raised.

Some melanomas do not conform to the A-B-C-D-E criteria, so any supsicious ones should be examined by a Doctor/Dermatologist.

Prevent the damage with the use of a broad spectrum sun-screen at all times whilst in the sun, and do not allow your skin to burn, 3 burns in your lifetime increases you risk of skin-cancer! Slip, slap and slop it on, as the Australians say! A teaspoon of sun-screen for your face and a shot glass for your body and re-apply regularly.

For more information visit the Skin Cancer Foundation.

The main ageing process is not taking place in the top layers of skin (epidermis) but several millimetres below the surface in the “Dermis”. The slow loss of dermal mass with age, and the resulting or concurrent loss of resiliency, structural integrity as well as skin density, is the most obvious indicators of skin ageing. In addition, muscle atrophy and laxness will follow, in other words saggy skin! great.

In attempts to understand and ultimately affect the ravages of ageing upon skin, we must also deal with the acute and chronic hormonal changes that occur in the lifetime of human skin. Ageing skin is categorised into two parts – Intrinsic and Extrinsic.

Intrinsic Ageing

We begin by understanding Intrinsic ageing, this is mainly composed of an individuals genetic heritage, and this will dictate the colour of the skin, eyes, hair, in fact everything that makes up the individual. Every cell in the body has the genetic blue print stored in the DNA of the nucleus. This blue print will dictate the exact replication of the cell every time it divides, based on genes that are inherited from the family gene pool. Although genes govern a lot about your skin type, when it comes to ageing, genetic tendencies interact with lifestyle choices to determine how your skin will age. If your mother and grandmother had great skin, you would probably inherited some of their good genes, but if you smoke and bake in the sun then you lower the impact of your good genes and will prematurely age.

Telomeres

Telomeres are small segments of DNA, which coat the tips of chromosomes, and are an important part of that inherited aspect of ageing. Telomeres have been compared with the plastic tips on shoe laces because they prevent chromosomes ends from fraying and sticking to each other, which would scramble an organism’s genetic information to cause cancer, other diseases and death.

These telomeres are critical in cell positioning, accuracy of replication and structural integrity. After some 80 cell divisions the telomere becomes so short that the cells stop dividing and the cell enters a state of senescence (alive but distorted). This process is associated with ageing, cancer and a higher risk of death. So telomeres also have been compared with a bomb fuse. The shortening of our telomeres appears to be the cellular clock that determines the number of times our cells divide , which in turn, appears to control the ageing of our cells. Despite our best efforts that clock keeps on ticking!

Telomerase is an enzyme that repairs damaged telomeres, and has been referred to as the secret to cell immortality. Telomerase can reset telomeres back to their youthful lengths. It is known that most human cells stop making telomerase early in life, (apart from sperm and eggs) therefore creating the biological time bomb that leads to out limited lifespan. This whole process is genetic/intrinsic, the type and life of your telomeres is inherited and out of your control. It is ironic that the only immortal cell is a cancer cell and that brings an end to our life, the reason cancer cells divide forever and do not become senescent is that they contain telomerase.

Extrinsic Ageing

Wrinkles are one of the end results of an aged skin. It would be fair to say these wrinkles and other skin conditions found in an “aged skin” could easily be reduced in severity by prevention of exposure to Ultra Violet Light and Free Radicals. This is the type of ageing you have control over! and the term “premature ageing” basically means you’ve aged before your time, because of environmental factors, when added to the inherited aspect of ageing will result in how old we look for our age.

The main environmental factor that accelerates human skin ageing is UV radiation from the sun. Sun induced ageing is called “Photo-ageing” and it is a cumulative process that depends on the degree of sun exposure and skin type. Photo-ageing can be influenced further by other extrinsic factors such as smoking, excess alcohol and poor nutrition.

The effects of Smoking

I am sure you are well aware that smoking is bad! and oxidation is one of the main reasons why, the process of the tobacco burning involved in smokers is a major source of Free Radicals (oxidants) in smokers and even passive smokers. Smoking is particularly bad for the skin for two other main reasons. The first is that it interferes with the blood flow to the capillaries – the tiny blood vessels that take oxygen and nutrients to the skin and carry away carbon dioxide and waste products. This inevitably diminishes the health and function of the skin. Smoking also enhances an enzyme in the skin called Matrix Metalloproteinase which results in collagen breakdown and diminished collagen production. The effect causes wrinkles and loss of elasticity, smokers often have quite “loose stretchy skin”. No amount of anti-ageing ingredients will undo skin damage caused by cigarettes. Smoker’s skin is also much more dehydrated that non-smokers and if you continue to smoke you will double the rate at which you age! If you still insist on smoking, then try a little damage control – Improving diet and exercise is essential and replenish the body with antioxidants that are lost by the constant bombardment of Free Radicals. Collagen is damaged by smoking and vitamin C is essential for collagen production, so replenish every day! Seriously though, it’s not just about your skin, think about your internal organs! – give up

Skin Damage: Understanding Oxidation

Free Radicals, oxidative stress and antioxidants are familiar terms in the world of health and beauty, ultimately these terms have more underlying health concerns –  ageing, functional decline, illness and fatigue, which I am sure we are all anxious to prevent, to understand more please read -  Antioxidants to the Rescue

Changes you will see in your Skin

Both Intrinsic and Extrinsic factors will result in changes to our skin’s structure and funcion, but extrinsic factors cause the more pronounced changes. Some estimates that 80 – 99 % of the ageing we see on our skin as adults is a result of these environmental influences, the exposure to UV light is the major factor.

Intrinsically aged skin is smooth and generally unblemished, there will be exaggerated expression lines on the skin but generally the skin is well preserved. If you looked under the microscope then you will see more signs of ageing, which includes some surface skin degeneration as well as a break down of dermal tissue. In direct contrast, extrinsically aged skin (such as the skin on your face, hands, neck and chest) is wrinkled, sallow in colour and has some hyper and hypo pigmentation. Skin may also show a loss of tone and elasticity, more fragile and with more broken capillaries. Under the microscope extrinsic ageing is evident in the collagen and elastin, which would be thick and damaged – this is associated with cross linking and wrinkle formation.

Wrinkles

Wrinkles are basically depressions in the skin’s surface that may be coarse of fine, depending on the depth. Wrinkle depth can vary, coarse, deep set wrinkles are described as expression lines and often appear on the forehead, outer corners of the eyes (crows feet) and as vertical lines on the side of your mouth. Fine lines are much shallower and also appear in areas of facial movement - eyes, mouth and upper lip etc.

Wrinkles occur as a result of a reduction in muscle mass and skin thickness, cross-linking of collagen and elastin and dehydration of the top layer of skin (Stratum Corneum). This results in visible wrinkles on the surface and a loss of strength and elasticity.

Skin Discoloration

Changes in skin colour are often associated with an ageing skin. Skin colour is a mixture of red, yellow and brown coloration. This is a result of red oxygenated haemoglobin, blue deoxygenated haemoglogin, yellow carotenoids, flavins and the brown melanin pigment of our skin. Hyper-pigmentation spots are due to erratic melanocyte activity that is the result of cumulative UV exposure. Also Hypo-pigmentation (white patches) can occur and the result is a mottled appearance made up of darker and lighter areas. The white areas appear due to a reduction in the number of melanocytes, there is a decline of 6-8 % per decade after the age of 30, which accounts for a more translucent skin colour as we get older. As this happens it also reduces the skin’s protective capacity against U.V exposure and along with the decline in melanin, there is also a decline in Langerhans cells, which results in a decreased immune function in the skin, and can account for the increased malignant lesions in an aged skin. When we see an increase in yellow coloration in aged skin, it is a result of a decrease in brown melanin pigment along with a decline in red and blue coloured capillaries. In the case of cigarette smokers, the toxins cause a breakdown of elastin that also contributes to the yellow colour of the skin. This overall skin discoloration if often accompanied by broken veins.

The Breakdown of Collagen and Elastin

The majority of changes that occur in our skin will happen in the Dermis, which can lose 20 – 80 % of it’s thickness as we age. This is the result of changes in Fibroblasts, the cells responsible for Collagen, Elastin adn Glycosaminoglycan biosynthesis. Not only is Collagen and Elastin produced at a slower rate which impacts the skin’s ability to repair itself, but the organization of the proteins also change and affects the structure. The breakdown of Collagen and Elastin is controlled by the activity of Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMP) enzymes, known as Collagenase and Elastase. Studies have shown that U.V radiation activates these enzymes within hours of UVB exposure, and the long term elevation of MMPs results in disorganized clumped Collagen and Elastin that is described as Photo-damaged skin – people who have spent lots of time in the sun! Changes in Elastin fibres are so characteristic in photo-aged skin that the condition is know as elastosis and is a hallmark of sun damaged skin, this is seen as loose skin that takes longer to assume it’s original position when pulled.

Dehydration

Other changes in the Dermis include the ground substance that holds the Collagen and Elastin together, this intercellular glue also undergoes age-related changes. As we age the Glycosaminoglycans such as Hyaluronic Acid diminishes at around the age of 40! The loss of Hyalruonic Acid along with a reduced barrier layer on the surface of the skin is the likely cause of dehydration and the loss of turgidity and fullness, which will add to an aged appearance.

Cell Turnover Slows

Many of the noticeable signs of ageing can be atttributed to a slow down in cell renewal rates and cell turnover time. Studies show that epidermal turnover rate slows from 30 – 50 % between our thirties and eighties! This slow down can account for a dull, rough skin surface in a maturing skin.

The Loss of Fat

Your Hypodermis is a subcutaneous layer, composed of mostly fat (adipose tissue). There is a loss of fat in the facial structure as we get older which contributes to hollows under the eyes and a lack of cushioning over the skull. In this fatty layer the total number of fat cells declines, but they annoyingly accumulate in certain areas resulting in bags under the eyes, double chins and bigger ear lobes!

The Biochemical Reactions that cause Skin Ageing

Scientists attribute the majority of the structural changes in an ageing skin to UV exposure, it has only been in recent years that they have come to understand the actual Biochemical triggers that instigate these changes. These are chemical reactions that occur within the skin and include:

• Generation of Free Radicals, also known as Reactive Oxygen Species, UV light, Oxygen, pollutants etc will generate free radicals from stable molecules. As we have learnt earlier Free Radicals cause a cascade of damage to cells leading to inflamation, cross linking of Collagen and disease.
• Glycation leading to Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs). When sugar comes in contact with a protein (such as Collagen), it immediately reacts. This generates Free Radicals, which leads to a crosss-linking of Collagen and inflammation. Advanced Glycation End products are formed, and bond with a receptor on the cell to form Receptor-Age (R-AGEs) This causes inflammation, inhibits skin cell growth and contributes to cross linking of Collagen.
• Activation of Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs) with a subsequent decline in Collagen biosynthesis. MMPs play a role in maintaining a healthy dermis by removing damaged Collagen and Elastin (allowing space for new healthy fibres) this is also a critical part in wound healing. UV radiation activates large amounts of MMP’s, when this happens these MMPs (Collagenase and Elastase) begin to break down the very fibres they were designed to care for, and will contributes to a breakdown of the dermal matrix and cross linking of collagen, wrinkles and stiffening of the skin.

Now we have covered the basics of how we age, you’re probably feeling a little depressed? Well it’s not all doom and goom! There is much we can do to prevent and treat an ageing skin in a realistic way, I am working on the Prevention and Treatment of Ageing Skin post at the moment, so be patient!

Also known as Dermatitis, eczema comes in several forms – Atopic, contact, seborrhoeic and others less common. Dermatitis usually refers to a skin condition brought on by a reaction to something like an external irritant, i.e – detergents and metals.

The most common form of eczema is atopic eczema. It is thought to be triggered by allergies, and most prevalent in families where there is a history of asthma and hay fever. Atopic eczema is due to a faulty immune system, which leads to the body being unable to distinguish invading bacteria and viruses from harmless environmental substances such as pollen, house dust and mite droppings.

Many sufferers are driven to distraction by the overwhelming urge to scratch, which inevitably leads to severe scaling, bleeding and weeping of blisters under the skin. Not only is eczema unsightly, it is also extremely uncomfortable and frustratingly difficult to cure. Although eczema is very common (atopic eczema is now the most common childhood disorder in the western world), conventional medicine has yet to find a drug that effectively treats the condition without damaging side-effects.

Drugs from the doctor’s surgery include steroids and antihistamines, which can work for some people but they do have side effects and are often disappointingly ineffective.

A recent study by Dr Mike Cork (Head of Dermatology at the University of Sheffield) has shown the importance of avoiding the synthetic detergent Sodium Lauryl Sulphate and also the milder Laureth Sulphate, especially on sensitive skin and if you are eczema prone. He has published academic papers on the subject and is aiming to increase awareness of the fact that one of the most commonly prescribed treatments for both Psoriasis and Eczema, “Aqueous cream”, actually contains high quantities of Sodium Lauryl Sulphate. This ingredient is totally inappropriate for those with eczema and may even aggravate the skin, making the condition worse.

Eat Yourself Beautiful and Face the FATS!

Children who develop atopic eczema do so between the ages of three and six months, at the time when most are weaned. One clue that the Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) in Evening Primrose Oil could be a factor in controlling eczema, was found when breast-fed babies who switched to solids developed eczema. Human breast milk is a rich source of GLA and breast-fed babies receive the same amount of GLA found in two-three capsules of evening primrose oil every day.

Although the makers of formula feeds claim their products are as close in composition as possible to human breast milk, it is surprising that they rarely contain any GLA at all. British formula milks contain Linolenic Acid, which should be converted by the body into GLA, however studies show that some babies do not carry out this conversion properly. Even purely breast fed babies may not receive enough GLA to protect them from eczema if their mother’s blood has low levels of this important fatty acid. This suggests that it might be sensible for women who are breastfeeding to supplement their diet with evening primrose oil or a special pregnancy Omega Blend.

Treating Eczema

A key factor in controlling eczema is maintaining good moisture in the skin. For this, it is essential to have adeqate amounts of essential fats in your cell membranes. This means treating eczema from a nutritional angle and also topically with products that can strenghten the skin’s barrier and protect it.

Evening Primrose Oil taken as a nutritional supplement has shown to improve itching by 36%, scaling by 33%, and redness by 29%. Similar trials at the Dermatology clinic at the University of Bologna in Italy, reported substantial improvements in the clinical symptoms of atopic eczema after just four weeks of Evening Primrose Oil therapy.

The two main ways in which Evening Primrose can help improve dry skin and eczema is by preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and regulating the inflammatory processes that lead to skin scaling and itching. The key ingredient in the recipe for controlling eczema is Prostaglandin E1, a substance that has a number of important actions within the body. Prostaglandin E1 can dilate blood vessels, lower blood pressure, regulate the immune system in response to allergens and have an anti-inflammatory action. Anyone looking to improve atopic eczema should therefore look closely at ways to improve their levels of Prostaglandin E1, and Evening Primrose is an obvious choice as it is a rich source of GLA.

What about the other sources of GLA, such as Borage (Starflower Oil) and Blackcurrant Seed Oils?. Although these are a great source of GLA and will be great for your skin, they do not appear to be as good at stimulating the production of Prostaglandin E1. The reason is unclear, so although both Borage and Blackcurrant Seed Oils are useful supplements for general skin health, they are probably not the best option for specifically treating atopic eczema.

Evening Primrose Oil is the only oil to have been granted a medical licence to help treat eczema. It is available on prescription for the relief of atopic eczema in a standardised form called “Epogam”.

It is also a good idea to eat more polyunsaturated oils in nuts and seeds, and oilier varieties of fish. A general improvement in diet that is rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory foods, always has a great benefit for your skin.

The Topical Treatment of Eczema

Many people with eczema soon discover which products aggravate their condition such as soaps or certain creams, washing detergents or types of wool. With these, it is mainly a case of detecting which are the worst offenders and avoiding them. There may also be a link with the hardness of your water you wash in.

Ingredients to look out for in skin care products are: Evening Primrose Oil, Borage, Rosehip Seed Oil, Neem Oil, anti-inflammatory herbs e.g. Calendula, Echinacea, Chamomile, Comfrey, and barrier repair products.

Dermanova  cream is also very good.
The essential fatty acids help the skin in many ways, by keeping its softness and suppleness. The Hydrolipid balance and barrier fuctions of the skin are reliant on essential fatty acids.

Eczema Advice

• Avoid any form of exfoliation!
• Never rub your skin, pat dry.
• Avoid extremes of temperature
• Use less irritating mineral sunscreens, e.g, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Oxide.
• Avoid soap, it is far too alkaline.
• Stress can be a trigger! try some stress reduction techniqus like Yoga, Meditation, Massage and Reflexology.
• Try rubbing the contents of an Evening Primrose capsule into badly effected areas of your skin.

For more information and support visit – www.eczema.org

The reason that the sebaceous glands are over active is down to Testosterone. This hormone is secreted by the male sexual organs, and in women it comes from the ovaries and adrenal glands.

In excess the sebum makes skin look shiny and have open pores and tends to be easily congested – make-up doesn’t seem to stay on that well. Oily skin is genetic and you cannot stop the excess oil, but their are many products and lifestyle choices that can control it. Eventually as you get older and go through hormonal changes your oil secretion should calm down.

I have a genetically oily skin type that I have inherited from my mum (thanks mum!) Oily skin tends to age better than a dry skin – as long as you protect against the sun and don’t smoke etc. Although my skin is very oily, I only experience breakouts before my period, but I have to be careful to avoid Pore Clogging Ingredients (Comedogenic) as my skin gets clogged very easily. Don’t forget Oily skin can still get dehydrated, as it can lose water in the upper layers.

Oily Skin And Acne

So even if your skin is oily, it is not the direct cause of Acne, you would have a genetic predisposition to Acne, or hormone imbalance is triggered by stress and can cause a low grade persistent Acne.

Free flowing sebum is not a problem in regards to acne, It is the sebum that is not released, that builds up and gets inflamed, that results in acne breakouts.

 What is Combination Skin?

Identifying your skin type is made even more difficult by the “term” Combination Skin. Strictly speaking it is not a true skin type, but almost everyone at some time has combination skin. I tend to go with the majority rules theory – if your skin is mostly oily – then you have an oily skin type, If your skin is mostly dry – then you have a dry skin type. It is the formulation of the product that is important, cream or lotion, water or oil based.

Physiologically, the nose, chin, center of forehead, and the center of cheeks all have more oil glands than other parts of the face. Problems occur when you buy products for oily skin that are not appropriate for the areas that are not oily, or vice-versa. You may need separate products to deal with the different skin conditions on your face.

Tips For Oily Skin

• Avoid Harsh stripping of the skin – products with Alcohol will actually cause your skin to pump out more Sebum, to make up for what has been lost!
• Avoid baking your face in the sun! while it may seem to temporary dry your skin out – the sebaceous glands will go into overdrive to replace the lost oil! not to mention the Sun Damage!
• High Humidity will make your skin feel even oilier! you need a scrupulous skin-care routine, and avoid pore clogging ingredients.

Don’t give up, it is a manageable skin type and a blessing in disguise! Here are my skin-care must haves for oily skin.

• Scrupulous double cleansing that breaks down oils and stubborn make-up, so your second cleanse can actually clean your skin and pores – I like Dermalogica Precleanse  for the first cleanse
• Use a clay based or a foaming cleanser to thoroughly cleanse your skin, Dermalogica Dermal Clay Cleanser or Dermalogica Special Cleansing gel are very effective.
• Exfoliation can help control oil production, improve skin texture and help prevent clogged pores that lead to spots. Salicylic Acid is an effective ingredient to look for in exfoliants or other products for oily skin, as it can actually get inside the follicle and break down sebum. I like Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant or Dermalogica Daily Resurfacer.
• Once or twice a week, apply a deep cleansing clay based mask to help control sebum and clean pores. Try Dermalogica Sebum Clearing Masque or Dermalogica Skin Refining Masque.
• Even if you think your skin doesn’t need it, apply a light moisturiser like Dermalogica Oil Control Lotion, Dermalogica Active Moist or Crystal Clear No Shine Serum, even oily skin gets dehydrated.
• For make up, go for oil free formulations, I love Dermalogica Treatment Foundation and Mineralogie Matte Finishing Powder
• Sunscreen formulations have improved so much as they used to feel too greasy and clog the skin. I like Dermalogica Oil Free Matte Block SPF25 and Mineralogie Face And Body Block SPF30, a unique mineral powder you just dust over skin.

Skin Treatments for Oily Skin

By receiving a regular facial every 4 – 6 weeks, you can keep your skin clear and healthy. Professional extractions and exfoliation will help with the ongoing skin concerns of an oily skin, and also tackle any other concerns you may have with your skin.

• Dermalogica Custom Treatment
• Crystal Clear Microdermabrasion

This world wide issue reinforces that the best defence is to limit daylight exposure and protect the skin with sunscreen at all times.

The Electromagnetic Spectrum

Sunlight is comprised of different wavelengths of electromagnetic radiation. About 35% of the spectrum is called visible light, with 60% of infra-red range (felt as heat) and 5% is made up of ultraviolet (UV) rays. It is this whole UV range that we must concern ourselves with.

How UV light is absorbed in your skin

How deep do the UV rays penetrate your skin?
UVC radiation is potentially the most damaging as it is very energetic, fortunately for us UVC is absorbed by oxygen and ozone in the stratosphere and never reaches the earth’s surface, if it did we wouldn’t exist!

UVA rays are the longest rays in the spectrum, and they penetrate deeper into the skin. UVA rays are responsible for causing the damage at a cellular level, making them responsible for most skin cancers and the main cause of the signs of ageing in the form of wrinkles and discolouration. UVA is present all year round, even in wintertime!, 80-90 % of the ageing we see on our skin is down to environmental factors.

UVB rays are shorter than UVA rays, and cause the burn or tan effect in the skin. Both UVA and UVB rays can cause cancer, so wearing a broad spectrum sunscreen with antioxidants is absolutely essential!

Damage to the Epidermis

The skin’s response to the sun can be seen initially as erythema (redness of the skin). This is a result of the inflammatory response and dilation of the blood vessels in the dermis. This is due to the cell damage and the repair process.

Erythema generally appears two to six hours after you’ve exposed your skin. The redder your skin gets the more damage you’ve inflicted on your skin.

UVB rays are the most effective at generating erythema, that is why they are often referred to as the burning rays.

The sun and daylight also increase:

• Cell proliferation and thickening of the stratum corneum
• Dehydration as the lack of moisture in the stratum corneum leads to gaps in the skin’s barrier, leaking moisture and causing skin to flake.
• Sun exposure decreases the skin’s Hyaluronic acid content which can lead to a lack of volume in the skin.
• Hyper or Hypo pigmentation can also result.
• Following the initial erethema or sunburn, the skin responds by producing Melanin, which gives the tan appearance. Your tan is a sign of skin damage.

Collagen Breakdown and changes to Elastin

In the dermis, UV radiation causes Collagen to breakdown at a higher rate than with just chronological ageing. Sunlight damages collagen fibres and causes the accumulation of abnormal elastin. When this sun induced elastin accumulates, enzymes called Matrix Metalloproteinase’s are produced in large quantities.

Changes in the Dermal Blood Vessels

UV radiation causes the walls of blood vessels to become thinner leading to minor trauma in sun-exposed areas. Venous lakes can result on the lips and broken capillaries on the face and chest area.

Free Radicals generated

UV radiation is one of the major creators of Free Radicals. Always make sure the sun protection you have chosen contains Antioxidants in its formulation, they greatly enhance the protection against sun damage.
DNA Repair Inhibited

UV radiation affects the repair of damaged DNA. UVB is thought to cause the damage and UVA inhibits the repair process. So it is a double hit on the repair ability of the DNA in our cells.

Immune System Affected

The body has a defence system to attack developing cancer cells. These immune system factors include white blood cells, the T Lymphocytes and specialised skin cells called Langherhan cells. When the skin is exposed to sunlight, certain chemicals are released that suppress these immune cells and UVB is known to destroy Langerhan cells. An SPF 15 is proven to protect the Langherhan cells, that is why it is always recommended as a minimum.

Cell Death Prevention

The last line of defence of the immune system is a process called Apoptosis. Apoptosis is a process of cell suicide that kills severely damaged cells so they cannot become cancerous. This cell suicide is seen when you peel after a sunburn. There are certain factors, including UV exposure, that prevent this cell death allowing cells to continue to divide and possibly become cancerous.

The Carcinogenic Effects

The carcinogenic effect of ultraviolet exposure may be diagnosed as various forms of skin cancer. Skin cancer begins in cells, the building blocks that make up the skin. Normally, skin cells grow and divide to form new cells. Every day skin cells grow old and die, and new cells take their place.

Sometimes this orderly process goes wrong. New cells form when the skin does not need them and old cells do not die when they should. The DNA is also effected and these extra cells form a mass of tissue called a growth or tumour. Growth or tumours can be benign or malignant. If you notice any suspicious lesion or skin disorder, you should immediately seek a doctors attention for a diagnosis.

Checking Moles

Melanomas start from moles so it’s a good idea to check for any changes in your moles. Any mole that bleeds, changes its size, shape, colour, texture or sensation should be checked out by a doctor.

Smart Sun Sense and Prevention
The best way to prevent skin cancer and sun damage is to protect skin from the daylight and direct sun. UV radiation can penetrate through light clothing, windshields, windows and clouds. Also, protecting children from an early age is so important, as most of the damage is done when we are young. Sunscreens can be used on babies over the age of six months. keep the following in mind:

• Avoid the midday sun
• There is as much UVA in the winter as in the summer
• One burn doubles your risk of melanoma
• Protect from UV reflection from sand, water, snow and ice – 90% bounces back
• Give yourself a yearly examination for skin cancer and changes in moles

Tomatoes could be the key to sun care!

Lycopene is being added to the list of antioxidants that could potentially protect skin suffering substantial sun damage. Lycopene is found in tomatoes and other red fruits. Its concentration is particularly high in cooked tomatoes and tomato paste. In a small, controlled study carried out by Newcastle and Manchester Universities, women were given 55g of tomato paste each day (to eat) for 12 weeks. The skin protection against sunburn increased by 30% in the women. So combined with topical UVA and UVB protection it could offer greater benefits for your skin while in the sun.

How SPF’s Work

The SPF represents the ability of a sunscreen to delay sun-induced burning or erythema. It is important to realise that an SPF is only a measure of how much UVB protection provides. Unfortunately, a similar system of denoting sunscreen protection for UVA radiation has not been universally recognised. Always look for broad spectrum sun products.

Sunscreens work by two mechanisms:

Chemical Sunscreens – Absorb UV rays, lowering the energy level and releasing energy as heat. This type needs to be applied to the skin before any other product, and normally 20 minutes before sun exposure.
Physical Sunscreens – Reflect or scatter the energy rays. They are mineral based so therefore less irritating. They need to be applied last as they bounce the rays off the skin. You will also find physical sunscreens in mineral make-up, which is normally SPF 20-26, depending on brand.
It is important to understand that, even though you may be using a sunscreen, some UVB rays will still penetrate through your skin, you cannot filter out 100% of the sun’s rays.

For example – SPF 2 products protects your skin from 50% of the UVB rays, so you can stay in the sun twice as long as you would be able to without protection. So you may burn after 5 minutes without protection, once this SPF is applied you could stay out for 10 minutes without burning. (this is just an example as this SPF is far too low)

SPF 8 blocks 87.5 % of UVB rays.

SPF 15 blocks 93.33 % of UVB and some UVA rays.

SPF 30 blocks 96.6 % of UVB and some UVA rays.

SPF 60 blocks 97.98 of UVB and some UVA rays.

While it may seem that a product with an SPF 50 or higher would offer a full percentage rate of protection, it is mostly comprised of an increased level of chemicals, which can cause a higher rate of irritation in skin. Also look out for fragrance in sunscreens as these would be photo-toxic and can give you a reaction or pigmentation problems.

If you have a sunscreen sensitivity then look for mineral based products which contain Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, and can have an anti-inflammatory effect on damaged skin.

Application of Sunscreen
Most importantly, when you use a sunscreen, make sure you apply an adequate amount to ensure you are getting the desired SPF. That’s generally about one teaspoon for the face and about on eighth of a cup for complete body coverage. Unless you are using a waterproof formulation, reapply sunscreen whenever you swim, exercise or sweat profusely. The national cancer society recommends re-application every 2 hours.

Vitamin D Production

Known as the sunshine vitamin, this nutrient is essential for healthy bones and is produced in the body when exposed to sunlight, it is also found in oily fish, fish liver oils, egg yolks and margarine. Most people should be able to get all the vitamin D they need from their diet and by getting a little sun, I know this may seem a bit ironic, but a little sun is good for us, just be careful!

If you are lacking in vitamin D for a long time then your bones may soften. In serious cases this leads to rickets in children and osteomalacia in adults.

By enjoying the sun sensibly, it is possible to make enough vitamin D while not increasing your risk of skin cancer and premature ageing. The amount of time you need in the sun to make enough vitamin D varies from person to person, it depends on things like skin type, time of day and year, and where you are in the world.

The amount of time needed to make enough vitamin D is always less than the high amounts that cause tanning or sunburn. You don’t need to spend hours in the sun to feel the benefits of sunlight. In fact extra time in the sun doesn’t mean you keep on producing more vitamin D. When your body has a healthy level of the vitamin, the excess is broken down. From October to March our skin cannot make vitamin D as there is a low level of UVB in winter sunlight. Fortunately, health benefits of vitamin D do not need to be traded off for skin protection. You can get adequate amounts from your diet/supplements. Cod Liver Oil seems to contain the highest units of vitamin D.

Say NO to Sunbeds!!

While it is true that UV radiation of most sun beds do not cause erythema (redness) – although I have known very fair skinned people to burn – there is still damage being caused at a cellular level, and for some individuals this can lead to melanomas and skin cancer. Sun beds are definitely not safer than the sun! Beware of the coin operated sun beds, they may be quite old and you have no way of knowing if the tubes have been changed.

UVA is the primary wavelength used in sun bed because it causes the tanning reaction without the burning reaction of UVB. The long term effects on your skin will be premature ageing and pigmentation, I like to think of them as “Time Machines” as they definitely accelerate the ageing process – forward in time! making your skin look 10 – 15 years older.

Try some of the excellent Self Tanning products on the market instead, you will thank yourself for it later! I like Fake Bake and Liz Earle’s Face Self Tan Spritz, they don’t clog my pores and look very natural.

Topical Sun Care Products
As consumers we are demanding more from sunscreen products and has fuelled research into new technology in sunscreen ingredients. New types of dispersions of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide allow the formulation of products that no longer require the use of iron oxides to overcome the intense whiteness of these physical sunscreens. In addition, improvements to chemical sunscreens have enabled formulas that have a more elegant feel and texture to them. Sunscreen products can finally be made more like skin care products, that accommodate different skin types.

Antioxidants in Sun Care are Essential

On the research front, scientists have discovered ways to enhance sun protection for skin without the use of additional sunscreens. These studies indicate that when antioxidants (vitamins C and E) are formulated with sunscreen agents, protection against both UV-induced sunburn and free radicals in the epidermis and dermis is enhanced, but these vitamins need to be in a stable form to actually provide an antioxidant effect.

Dermalogica’s Daylight Defence System with UV Smart Booster Technology

These are very effective sun care products that provide enhanced photo protection by incorporating antioxidants into the product via a unique Smart Booster Technology, a customised micro-capsule technology that safe guards active vitamins, then releases them upon contact with UV rays (anytime the skin is exposed to daylight) for maximum free radical protection. All products in this range are broad spectrum and protect against UVA and UVB rays. You can also choose sun care for specific skin type – oily, dry and sensitive, as they have different formulations.

If you are actually going to sun bathe, then you do need specific sun care products as above, not a tinted moisturiser or your make-up with SPF, these are OK for every day wear if you are out of the sun, but you cannot rely on them for proper sun protection.

Product Recommendations for every day protection:

• Mineralogie Mineral Foundation SPF 26
• Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF 30
• Crystal Clear Skin Brightening Complex
•  Mineralogie Face and Body Block SPF30
• Dermalogica ChromaWhite TRx Pure Light SPF30