Quite simply, peptides mimic nature’s tissue regenerating processes. They assume the role of messenger and can signal specialised cells in the Dermis (Fibroblasts) to increase the production of:

• Collagen
• Glycosaminogylcans – which are key components of the dermis that give it strength and turgor.

There are many types of Peptides used in skincare products, for example: Palmityoyl Tripeptide-5, Oligopeptides, tetrapeptides, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 – this is marketed as the Botox alternative – but no topical product can stop muscle contraction in the way Botox can! All of these Peptides will have a slightly different way in which they strengthen the dermal matrix.

The Bottom Line on Peptides

These are very worthy ingredients to look for in any anti-ageing product you may choose, just make sure there is enough of them in the product. Check the ingredients list and make sure that your peptide ingredient is halfway or above in the ingredient list, this is normally reflected in the price. They are also a good choice for sensitive skins, who cannot tolerate Retinol or AHA’s. They won’t work miracles, but used regularly you will see excellent cumulative results and keep your skin in good condition – try applying after using a Derma Roller for extra penetration and results.

My Top Peptide Products

• Jan Marini Transformation Cream
• Jan Marini Age Intervention Peptide Extreme
• Dermalogica Power Rich
• O2 Intraceuticals Line Wand

Vitamin C is one of the many super vitamins with powerful antioxidant and age-defying effects. It is an important Vitamin to be taken  internally and also to apply the most stable/non-irritating form of Vitamin C topically to our skin.

The best known form of Vitamin C is “L-ascorbic acid”, this is the most widely used in vitamins and skincare products, however it is water soluble and cannot penetrate the surface of the skin, it is also rather acidic and can be  irritating to some skins.

Vitamin C is critical in every aspect of a youthful, healthy skin – remember that we cannot make Vitamin C in our bodies, it has to come from food or supplements. The average pool of Vitamin C is around 1500mg and the average person must have a continuous intake of Vitamin C in order to maintain bodily functions. Our skin is especially vulnerable to Vitamin C deficiency, as it is pulled out of the skin to maintain other bodily functions. Stress can cause even greater amounts of Vitamin C to be depleted from the skin.

Scurvy - the Sailors Disease

Scurvy is one of the conditions of severe Vitamin C deficiency and was most common in sailors at sea without any fresh fruit or vegetables for many months. One of the first signs was slack, loose skin, as we know Vitamin C is vital for Collagen production and maintenence and a lack of Vitamin C causes it to degrade – hence the slack skin, a persons gums would also bleed. This is extreme and hopefully no-one is suffering from scurvy anymore!, but you would be surprised how many people are lacking enough Vitamin C. Since Vitamin C in our foods is affected by climate, soil conditions, cooking, storage time etc, you may not be getting as much as you’d thought! hence the wisdom of taking a daily supplement of around 500 – 1000mg. If you find that regular Vitamin C Supplements can irritate your stomach, look out for C-esta supplements, it is gentle on the stomach and easier to absorb by your body, it can be more expensive though.

The Different Forms of Topical Vitamin C

1. L-ascorbic Acid
2. Ascorbic Acid
3. Ascorbyl Palmitate (C-ESTER)
4. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
5. Calcium Ascorbate

It has been proven that the most effective form of topical Vitamin C is C-Ester, as it is the most stable and easily absorbed by the skin. Vitamin C-Ester is formed by adding a fatty acid from Palm Oil to L-ascorbic Acid – the resulting chemical bond creates a fat soluble compound containing Vitamin C. Compared to Ascorbic Acid it is 30x stronger at a quarter of the dose. Vitamin C-Ester can protect the skin against Free Radical damage, reduce fine lines, stimulate Collagen production, reduce pigmentation, and give a visible improvement in the skin tone and texture.

Jan Marini Skin Research has the brilliant C-ESTA Line, which incorporates C-ESTER technology alongside DMAE (Jan’s DAE Complex), for tighter, smoother skin and the prevention of future skin damage.

I definitely recommend Vitamin C for inside and outside skin rejuvenation and health benefits, it truly is a superstar ingredient! It may not be the only ingredient to consider but it should be a strong consideration in an anti-ageing skincare regime.

The Universal Antioxidant

Alpha Lipoic Acid is both fat and water soluble, and is known as the “Universal Antioxidant” and is broad spectrum. It appears to recycle antioxidants such as Vitamin C & E and Glutathione after they have been used up. Ideal for use as an oral supplement and a very effective topical skin ingredient.

Alpha Lipoic Acid boosts the skin’s health in many ways, it is not only a  potent antioxidant, but offers benefits in skin health through preventing Glycation (Free Radical damage caused by sugar’s toxic effects), causing “Cross Linking” – leading to wrinkles and stiffness of an ageing skin.  Alpha Lipoic Acid also protects your DNA –  your cells genetic blueprint, this will help with a healthy cell replication mechanism.

Topical Application of Alpha Lipoic Acid

Alpha Lipoic Acid  topically applied to the skin is easily absorbed as it is both water & fat soluble, it can penetrate quickly through the lipid layers of the skin and works equally well as a free radical fighter in both the cell plasma membrane and the watery interior of the cell. It also has a powerful anti-inflammatory effect and can reduce skin redness and puffiness. Alpha Lipoic Acid has the ability to regulate the production of Nitric Oxide which in turn controls the blood flow to the skin, giving it a glowing, radiant appearance.

Alpha Lipoic Acid can help prevent ageing at its source and decreases the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, puffiness and skin imperfections, and has a calming effect on inflammation and redness – ideal for Rosacea.

You will find Alpha Lipoic Acid in O2 Intraceuticals Clarity Products, also Dr. Nicholas Perricone does some excellent products containing Alpha Lipoic Acid, as recommended in his book “The Wrinkle Cure” (definitely worth reading!).

As a supplement for your skin, I recommend the Viridian Alpha Lipoic DMAE Complex – find this in our Skincare Shop. You will get extra skin firming benefits from the DMAE, and it is also helpful in the maintenance of brain health.

DMAE is a powerful antioxidant that can have a stabilizing effect on cell membranes, this helps protect them from the damage of Free Radicals and premature ageing. DMAE is not only an antioxidant, it appears to have the ability to tighten and contract the muscles under the skin, this helps keep your face firm and contoured, and is just as important as fighting wrinkles!

 There is nothing more ageing than sagging skin and DMAE can prevent and reverse what is clinically known as “anatomical loss of position“, in other words Loose, sagging skin!

DMAE contains a chemical that can stimulate “nerve function” and causes the muscles to contract and tighten. DMAE is the building block of the neurotransmitter “Acetylcholine“, and like other neurotransmitters Acetylcholine allows one nerve to communicate with another, or to communicate with a muscle.

DMAE & The Brain Connection

I do remember my mum telling me to eat my fish as it will make me brainy! well there is actually some truth in this statement. DMAE is found in the flesh of fish, notably Salmon, but also Sardines and Mackeral have good levels - which are all also brilliant sources of Omega 3. DMAE is a powerful cognitive enhancer, so a diet rich in DMAE can potentially enable you to think more clearly, improve your memory and increase your problem-solving ability. 

So if you want to think more clearly and have greater muscle tone in both your face and body, choose a good topical DMAE product and try to eat some of the fishy sources, plus take a good DMAE Supplement.

Note – You can achieve enhanced facial muscle tone by using a muscle re-education device, like the Tua Viso Micro-current machine, as well as using a topical DMAE product, it boosts your results significantly if you use both.

Top DMAE Products -  Jan Marini Skin Research  C-ESTA line - contains good levels of DMAE, and gives excellent noticeable results.

Viridian Alpha Lipoic DMAE Complex  boost your skin and brain with these brilliant supplements.

Dr Nicholas Perricone – Has both topical and supplement forms of DMAE

HA is natural to the body, where it has a crucial role of lubricating us internally, mainly our skin and  joints where it acts as a shock absorber. It has a very clever ability to attract and bind moisture to itself (Humectant) - and can hold up to 1000 times it’s weight in water and is known as natures sponge.

Research has shown that HA can help with wound healing and can reduce scarring on the skin. It is unlike most topical compounds as it can penetrate the epidermis to a deeper level and hydrate skin tissue and plump out fine lines. It gives skin a smoother appearance and banishes fine dehydration lines, it really is a superior moisturising ingredient.

Bill Sardi – author of “How to live to 100 without growing old” writes – “HA is a revolutionary natural molecule that stops or even reverses ageing. HA is the modern day Fountain of Youth“, he goes on to say “HA helps to erase facial ageing, lines and wrinkles and can product wound healing without scarring”. (HA taken internally as a supplement)

HA is the main ingredient used in Restylane Filler (injections) - this is an FDA approved ingredient (animal & non animal), which testifies to its safety. The main source is rooster combs, but I am sure you will be glad to know the non-animal form comes from Soy-Beans, this is the type used in most topical products.

Our Hyaluronic Acid in our skin starts to diminish once we get to around 40 years old. This is what adds to an aged appearance as we lose some of the volume in the dermis. Topical products will not replace this, but HA is still an important hydrating ingredient that’s not to be sniffed at! It has shown that if our skin is dehydrated, then some enzyme functions do not happen. Even an oily skin can benefit from HA, and there are some wonderful hydrating products to choose from, here are my favourites that have high levels of HA in the ingredient list.

Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Booster - This is a super saturated fluid that helps hydrate, smooth and miminize fine dehydration lines. This easily absorbed fluid restores moisture (without oil) and helps restore the skin’s barrier layer. This has good levels of HA and all skin types can use, either apply neat of mix into your moisturiser.

O2 Intraceuticals Rejuvenate Hydration Gel - This really is a favourite of mine. The whole Intraceuticals range is formulated with a patented form of HA and you can see the difference in your skin once applied. This is a concentrated, silky, moisture rich gel that counteracts skin dehydration, also has high levels of stable Vitamin C. A favourite with oily skin that is concerned with ageing, as you can use this on it’s own if most creams are too heavy.

Dermalogica Antioxidant Hydramist - This is an amazing hydrating mist, packed with peptides, Vitamin C and White Tea, it really helps protect and hydrate the skin with high levels of HA. It is a refreshing spritz with the beautiful scent of Rose, you can use before moisturising or use during the day to counteract dehydrating atmospheres.

Taking HA internally in the form of a supplement has shown to have skin hydrating and plumping results, not to mention the benefits to your joints. Restoring HA plumps skin cells and restores moisture in all the tissues of the body - well worth it I think.

 Viridian do excellent HA supplements as well as PURE-XP HA Elite. Jan Marini’s C-ESTAMINS also contain high levels of Hyaluronic Acid, alonside every vitamin and mineral you need for youthful skin and vitality.

Vitamin A is a beneficial Cell Communicating ingredient and an Antioxidant when applied to the skin and is confirmed to improve wrinkles. It can increase Collagen synthesis and Glycosaminoglycans (the substances in your Dermis that hydrate and plump skin, e.g Hyaluronic Acid). Vitamin A in the appropriate strength also has the ability to stimulate the anchoring fibrils at your Dermal Epidermal Junction – this is the area that starts to separate your epidermis from your dermis as we age.

What is confusing, is the various forms of Vitamin A and what strengths they should be to have any noticeable effect on the skin.

Not all forms of Vitamin A are created equal. Some are more easily converted to Retinoic Acid than others. The typical conversion pathway – is as follows - Retinyl Palmitate => Retinol => Retinaldehyde => Retinoic Acid. 

 Our skin has enzymes which convert the Retinyl esters into Retinol and from that the Retinol is converted into Retinyl (Retinyl Aldehyde) and from there it is converted into Retinoic Acid and this is the form that actually makes the changes in DNA and cellular structures. Only a small amount of Retinoic Acid is normally found in the skin.

• Retinyl Palmitate  – This is an ester of Vitamin A and the animal form. It is found in nearly all skincare products that are widely available. As you see from above it is the lowest in the coversion chain, so isn’t as irritating as the other forms. Many products with Retinyl Palmitate are touted as equivalent to Retinoic Acid yet without the side-effects. Many of these products contain too little Retinyl Palmitate to have any noticeable effect and just to have it listed on the ingredients list is not enough. Products with higher concentrations do exist, Environ formulated their whole range around the use of Vitamin A in this form. Some individuals may not be able to convert this effectively into Retioic Acid, while others may see great results.
• Retinol -This is the alcohol form of Vitamin A and Retinol is regarded by some as the “True” Vitamin A or the complete molecule. It is highly effective if in a stable form and helps create better, healthier skin cells and increase the amount of skin support substances. The stability and packaging issues are important as any container or jar that lets in air or sunlight will degrade the Retinol. Effective stable versions of Retinol will have this either near the top of the ingredient list or above half way. I use Afirm TRx systems, it has shown me great results.
• Retinoic Acid – This is the acid form of Vitamin A and is usually only available from prescription from your doctor/dermatologist. It is also known as Tretinoin - its technical name is All-Trans Retinoic Acid and is the ingredient in the following prescription topical drugs – Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, Avita and Differin. Some of these are prescribed for acne as Vitamin A has shown to clear acne lesions and normalize the skin. It  is approved as a treatment for severe Photo-aged skin and helps prevent further damage. The results of using this drug are indisputable, as Tretionoin affects and improves the actual cell production deep in the Dermis. However not every-one’s skin will tolerate the use of Tretinoin without experiencing discomfort and side effects including flaking and a sunburned like skin. Most dermatologists advise starting with the lowest percentage and use once a week, then building up the usage – follow any guidelines given by your doctor.
• Beta Carotene - This is the plant version of Vitamin A and a member of the Carotenoid family – it’s not just Carrots that contain this, many dark leafy veg contains this as well as other fruit and vegetables. Beta-Carotene  is a fantastic Antioxidant but also has the ability to convert Retinol into Retinoic Acid,  this may not be effective for everyone or very results based.

In summary Vitamin A is the most effective anti-ageing ingredient you can use. Although it is not the only ingredient to look for in a formula, it deserves strong consideration by anyone concerned with keeping their skin in top condition. Vitamin A deficiency is probably the greatest vitamin deficiency of the skin and can lead to DNA damage of the skin cell, to minimize this debt apply a product every day with Retinyl Palmitate (skin friendly form), start this from a young age and use with a reliable sunscreen with antioxidants C and E, as Vitamin A is depleted by daylight. You may choose to try one of the stronger forms of Retinoids as you age, especially if your skin is very strong and resistant.

Unless you think you are severely deficient, then I wouldn’t advise Vitamin A supplements as too much is toxic, but try to eat more Vitamin A rich foods. Animal (especially fish) livers contain a good source,  but I prefer the vegetable sources of Beta-Carotene,  e.g - Carrots, Sweet Potato, Canteloupe Melon, Goji Berries and loads more. My mum used to tell me to eat all my carrots and I will be able to see in the dark, well it is indeed true as Vitamin A improves night vision!

The family of preservatives in question is“Parabens”and many of you will be fearful of the name without really knowing why? I know lots of people who will only buy Paraben Free products, but when asked why they either don’t know or say that they cause breast cancer! Also when we start to see “Paraben Free” on lots of things, then ultimately we think it’s a bad ingredient. 

 Parabens are widely used as a preservative in cosmetics, foods, pharmaceuticals and household products. They stop products from deteriorating by protecting them from harmful micro-organisms during storage and while the product is opened and used.

This adverse publicity has stemmed from a flawed and very much misinterpreted scientific research paper that was published (then the media twisted it). The Paraben family are actually naturally occuring chemicals, found in fruits, vegetables and other plants as well as being man-made, despite what has been written, parabens are not especially Oestrogenic ( not as much as Apples, and far less than Soya products). The study in question which was widely publicised claimed to find traces of Parabens in breast cancer tissue samples, but extraordinaraly  traces of parabens where also found in the blank control samples – which should have been just blank! Dr Philippa Darbe, the researcher on this confirmed that traces of parabens came from the laboratory glassware, most likely from the cleaning agents, so it is entirely possible that the parabens found in the breast tissue sample were  actually present only due to the contamination of the laboratory glassware. No other studies since have found any parabens whatsoever in breast cancer tissue. Unfortunately the media has focused it’s attention on this and now regards paraben free skincare as much better for us, which is absolute nonsense, it has only given rise to many more so called “Organic/natural” brands being sold as Paraben free, as if it is a much better option! You will find that lots of big brands have started to remove Parabens, this is due to the scaremongering and people avoiding products with parabens.

Parabens are approved for use as a preservative in the European Cosmetics Directive  and are the most widely used in skincare products, they have been used and tested since the 1930′s and shown to be very safe for us and the environment.

Products need to be safe, especially skincare that has a mix of oil and water and used around our mouth and eyes! This  means using an adequately preserved product! Bugs love to grow especially in an emollient formulation that comes into contact with fingers. Using a product that is not properly preserved or has inferior preservatives may be potentially  harmful and you can risk skin infections.

For more facts on Parabens go to – www.thefactsabout.co.uk which is a very credible source of information run by the Cosmetics, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, it’s the first place I go when I hear a scare story!